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8 07 2010


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MER supplies heavy-duty Hydraulic Power Units (HPU) to the US Navy, oil spill response contractors, and Alaska’s commercial fishermen. The range of HPUs is from 20 gallons per minute (GPM) to 350.

The machines are similar to a generator set except they make useful hydraulic power instead of electricity at variable engine speeds.

The optional aluminum skid shown here also carries the fuel and hydraulic oil tanks.

MER also makes Hybrid units that produce hydraulic power and electrical power.  HPU cooling options include radiator, heat-exchanger, or keel-cooling. Keel-cooling is the method of choice for machines like oil skimmers, that must operate in contaminated waters.

Standard Equipment:       
 Hydraulic oil heat-exchanger
 Variable speed throttle
 Manual oil change pump        
 Gauge panel
 12V Starting/Charging system
 Anti-vibration mounts.

The direct driven pump is shown in this photo.

Optional Equipment:
 Air or hydraulic clutched pump drive,  Electric clutched pump drive,  Pumps can be driven from either end of   the engine or side-mounted. Remote start and stop,  Extension harnesses,  Gear, vane or piston pumps,  Pressure compensated pumps, Load sensing,  Skid mounted hydraulic reservoir, 
Variety of hydraulic filter options: 
 Quick disconnect hydraulic connections, Custom base frame geometry, base frame materials in steel, galvanized steel, stainless steel, and aluminum.
 Integral fuel tank and or hydraulic oil reservoir, Integral drip pan, Engine driven air compressors, AC Generator opposite the hydraulic, pump drive.

Important components are labeled in this photo.

MER Mounts Save Time and Dollars!

14 08 2009

Figure 1  The Final Welded Mount Foot Fits Perfectly

Figure 1 The Final Welded Mount Foot Fits Perfectly

 Call Gary, Norm, or Brian at 800-777-0714 To Order Yours

Weld-up mounting feet are available from MER to
make engine, transmission, and generator mounting
much faster and easier.
The finished product, seen below, works with your
existing mount holes on the engine block or
transmission, to properly place the slotted plate, and
provide a place for the adjustable mount to fit beneath.

Figure 2   The Vertical Plate Can Be Turned Over If Need For Your Aplication

Figure 2 The Vertical Plate Can Be Turned Over If Need For Your Aplication


 To get to this point, suspend your engine,
transmission, or generator from a hoist or block  it safely in the position needed.

Next lay out the MER pieces as shown, and be sure to leave .5″ of threads below the slotted plate, to allow for later adjustment of the mount itself. Tack weld them, and do a careful trial fit, making any needed adjustments before the final welding.

Figure 3   Be Sure to Leave 1/2" of Adjustment Below the Slotted Plate For Later Adjustment

Figure 3 Be Sure to Leave 1/2" of Adjustment Below the Slotted Plate For Later Adjustment

Calibrating The Engine Oil Dipstick

3 06 2009

Engine Installation angle affects the dipstick oil level reading.

When engines (and transmissions) are installed at an angle, the oil pan’s oil-level changes, front-to-back. If operated at extreme angles without re-marking the dipstick, the engine can fail, due to lubricating oil starvation.

This is because, without re-marking the oil level will appear way too high. If the excess oil is then drained down to the full mark, the engine will be running low on oil! High speed engines change all of the oil in the pan every 10-15 seconds. If you’re running with less oil than needed, the oil gets a severe workout and will not last the full oil-change interval. What’s more, running a low oil level may actually starve the engine for lube oil.

Each manufacturer knows how much an engine can be angled before the oil level gets too close to the rear oil seal. If the oil level gets above the oil seal, the seal will fails. Engine makers publish their maximum installation angle guidelines, and these specifications vary widely between engine models. It is to your advantage to verify the installation angle of your engine, and proper marking of the dipstick.

However, after the engine is installed,the next step is to re-mark the dipstick. To do this, always review the engine makers directions for re-marking the dipstick!
Remarking 2 Blog
Then, based on the manufacturer’s recommendations, continue by warming up the engine to be sure all internal passages and the filter, are full of oil. Next, drain the oil from the engine, leaving the oil filter un-disturbed. Now, refill with the factory specified amount of oil, minus the amount in the oil lines and filter. MER Service Manager, Herb Knight stresses the importance of taking into account the volume of oil the filter and oil lines hold, especially if using a remote oil filter. Subtract this amount from the amount of oil poured back into the engine.

Make note of exactly where the new “Full” mark must be, and for composite dipsticks like the one shown here, file a shallow ring all the way around the stick, to make the new mark. For steel dipsticks however, lightly file the new “Full” level mark across both sides of the stick, above the old mark.

Remarking 3 BlogFor all dipsticks, finding the new “Add” mark is obtained by measuring the distance between the original “Full” and “Add” marks.Finally, make the new “Add” mark the same distance below the new “Full” mark.

MER sells John Deere Oil and Filters, as well as a complete line of filters for all engines.

MER Fuzz-Buster/ZF-80 Transmission Service

27 02 2009

Use The MER Fuzz-Buster Magnet To Extend Transmission LIfe

Use The MER Fuzz-Buster Magnet To Extend Transmission LIfe

MakingHappy Customers

Is it OK to brag just a little bit about MER’s famous service!?  The short piece that follows explains how our customers feel about our service:
Dear Stevie ,
Thank you so much for your expeditious help with and handling of my KBW10 transmission needs. I was more than a little depressed when I had to come to Seattle yesterday to pick up the unit; not knowing what to do nor where to go for straight answers and a solution. Thanks to the internet for information/location regarding MER… and after stopping by and meeting you all … the cloud of uncertainty was lifted…and now the solution is at hand. I was impressed with the people at MER and I enjoyed meeting you in particular. Everyone was friendly and seemed genuinely interested in helping me with my problem…all qualities of a progressive and successful business. Thanks for being there for me and for your careful and efficient handling; I’ll look forward to seeing you again when I pick up the old core and the new transmission.
Best regards,
Maury Hafford

Making Your Aluminum Case Transmission Last Longer

The MER Fuzz-Buster Magnet, for aluminum case transmissions, sits on top of the regular filter. As the transmission runs, thousands of gallons of oil flow through the magnetic field that is projecting through the stream of oil.

For a quick visual check of the transmission condition before a trip, just lift the filter lid and shine a light on the magnet. If it’s clear of metal particles, you are ready to travel.

However, if there is over 1/2 thimble full of metal fuzz on the magnet, you better have it checked. To service your transmission and get started with a Fuzz-Buster, follow these instructions:

ZF-80 Transmission Filter Service

1-Using a 6MM allen wrench, turn the screw counter clockwise to remove the oil filter lid (1).

2-Lift the old filter (2), from its position.

3-Place the MER Fuzz-Buster Magnet (3) on top of the new filter, taking care to center it on the new filter.

4-Replace both oil seal o-rings (4 & 5), and re-assemble.

Changing The Oil

If there is a drain plug it will be at the bottom of the transmission, at the rear, just under the output shaft  flange.

1-Remove the drain plug and drain the oil into a waste container.

2-It is a good habit to hold the drain plug in your hand until it is replaced in the drain hole and tightened.

3-Refill the transmission with Dextron 2 transmission oil-this is a red oil. Run the engine and check for leaks, and re-check the oil level again.

However, not all transmissions have a drain plug. If yours doesn’t, use a suction pump to remove the old oil. These pumps are available through MER Parts.

1-Remove the dipstick.

2-Insert the suction pump tube to the bottom of the transmission, through the dipstick hole.

3-Pump all of the old oil into a waste container.

4-Refill the transmission.

5-Run the engine and check for leaks.

Recognizing Combustion Chamber Configurations

5 08 2008

Comparing Gas And Diesel Engine Combustion Chamber Locations

Comparing Gas And Diesel Engine Combustion Chamber Locations

This drawing compares the location of combustion chambers between many, if not all gas and diesel engines. This important difference becomes critical after an engine submerges or gets water, fuel, or coolant above the piston.

When an engine is hydraulically locked like this, there is a night and day difference between the two engine designs, and how to go about clearing the cylinder.

With the gas engine on the left, notice that simply waiting a while will allow most of the fluid to drain down through the piston ring end gaps, and eventually you will be able to rotate the engine. Or, to hasten the process, you can pull the spark plugs and turn the engine over.

Notice however, that the top of the diesel piston is constructed so that the fluid cannot escape unless the injector is removed and the engine barred over to clear the fluid.

(Some of this material excerpted from “PRACTICAL BOAT MECHANICS”, by Ben L. Evridge, to be published this fall.)

Plug That Critical Passage!

22 07 2008

Plug Critical Passages

Plug Critical Passages

When working around critical passages and scraping gaskets, be sure to plug the opening, as shown here. Next, scrape the gasket, taking care to work around the shop cloth. This practice will protect the engine from contamination.

Scraping The Gasket

Scraping The Gasket

Unplug The Passage When Finished

Unplug The Passage When Finished

(Some of this material excerpted from “PRACTICAL BOAT MECHANICS”, by Ben L. Evridge, to be published this fall.)

Four Important Ratios

22 07 2008

Ratio Of Steering Cylinder Travel To Rudder Arm

Ratio Of Steering Cylinder Travel To Rudder Arm

Remember these important ratios that make or break your boat’s handling.

1-Ratio Of Steering Cylinder-To Rudder Arm Travel: When steering components are changed or a new boat is built, the steering helm can require too many turns to steer the rudder from lock-to-lock to be practical. This will also greatly reduce the steering effort. Or, if the system has insufficient turns, the effort required at the helm can be far too high to be practical.

To remedy these conditions, move the point of connection to the rudder arm out if the effort is too high. If on the other hand the system requires too many turns, move the point of connection inward toward the rudder shaft, even drilling an additional hole if needed.

Ratio Of Engine Speed-To Transmission Output Shaft Speed

Ratio Of Engine Speed-To Transmission Output Shaft Speed

2-Ratio Of Transmission Output Speed-To Engine Speed: When a diesel engine turns at 2,000 rpm and the propeller shaft turns at only 1,000 rpm, it is said that the drive ratio through the transmission of 2:1. Put another way, 2,000 rpm is going into the front of the transmission but only 1,000 rpm comes out the back. This is accomplished by using two gears inside the transmission running together. From the ratio we can see that the driving gear, the one from the engine, must have half the number of teeth than those on the gear that drives the propeller shaft. The gear reduction is what allows the engine, transmission, and propeller shaft to work together to move the boat efficiently through the water.
3-Ratio Of Governor Lever-To Throttle Control Movement: The response of engine speed acceleration can be changed by altering the ratio of the control-to the throttle lever movement, as shown.

4-Ratio Of Transmission Shift Valve-To Travel Of Shift Control Movement: The same is true for the shifting mechanism.

Ratio Of Control Travel-To Engine And Transmission Levers

(Some of this material excerpted from “PRACTICAL BOAT MECHANICS”, by Ben L. Evridge, to be published this fall.)